Happy weekend…

This past week was a lot of fun – I celebrated a birthday, we finished up with semester one of French classes, and had a wonderful day out checking out the Sempé exhibition at Hotel de Ville and eating lunch at Cocottes by Constance. MmmMmm. Will write more about that later. This weekend we’re off to Scotland and are looking forward to seeing good friends and being back in our old stomping grounds. I hope you all have a lovely weekend! And enjoy this – it gives me the heebie-jeebies but I also think it’s really cool. These guys are nuts!

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Time

Last Friday I had the opportunity to go on a guided walk through the Musée d’Orsay. It was fantastic to walk through the newly renovated rooms, some still smelling of fresh paint, and look at some of the most amazing pieces of art in existence. I do not take pictures of art, but I had to pull out my camera at one of the big clock windows. Isn’t it beautiful?

And if you peek through, you get a wonderful view of drizzly Paris and Sacre Cour.

I think these clocks are so beautiful. Living here I’ve noticed that big public clocks are surprisingly rare in Paris. The other clock window now looks over a beautiful Art Deco restaurant. Looking forward to going there with some visitors.

 

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And the winner is….

Comment #6 as chosen by the Random Number Generator. Sloane! Congratulations and enjoy your Parisian postcards.

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Frustrations Français or why I hate La Poste

For the regular readers of this blog, you all know that I love living in Paris and am so grateful for this opportunity. Now, despite the rosy picture I paint here there are a few frustrations. The French bureaucracy is legendary and we’ve had a few run-ins but nothing compares to the infuriating French postal service. Here’s a rundown of the situations we’ve faced at La Poste.

1. Scotty has an application that must be mailed in and it’s due in a few days. In the US and the UK this generally isn’t a problem – you have to pay a bit more to get it where it’s going but it usually works out. Scotty gets his paperwork together, slips all eight pieces of paper into an envelope, double checks the US address, and makes his wait to La Poste. Twenty minutes and $75.00 (!!!!!) later the letter is safely on its way. Three days later the package is back at our flat, no refund, no explanation.

2. My dear friend Bethy asks for my address and sends me a Christmas package. How thoughtful! La Poste states that it was delivered on 23 Dec. Nope, it wasn’t. It’s lost in the system. Working on tracking it down.

3. We paid ($55.00) to have our mail forwarded when we moved apartments mainly due to the fact that I was still waiting for my paperwork for my French visa. Despite paying and filling out all the forms, not a single piece of mail has been forwarded and my paperwork was delivered to our old address. The landlord took his time getting it to us and it arrived on Friday. My appointment was on Thursday.

There have been other minor frustrations in dealing with La Poste, other fees, multiple trips to track down mail that’s supposed to be at the office. And at this point, I’m pretty sure La Poste owes us around $125.00 and a Christmas present.

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Simple

I’ve decided that it would be a good discipline to take part in the WordPress weekly photo challenge. Each week there is a new theme, and you’re supposed to post a photo that goes along with that theme. Obviously there is a lot of room for interpretation, but I think it could be fun. So, here’s my first posting to go along with the theme of Simple:

I had soaked some French Puy Lentils overnight and was so surprised to see what a beautiful green had emerged when I rinsed them. Simple but beautiful.

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Stormy Sky

After a delightfully mild autumn and early winter, the cold has settled in along with the famous melancholy Parisian drizzle. I love the clouds though. Scotty took these shots last night as a storm was passing overhead.

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Rue Mouffetard at Night

Our neighborhood is bustling during the day. There’s a primary school and during recess the cries, shouts, laughs, and yelling of children echoes off all the buildings. There’s a couple of universities within a stone’s throw as well as a resto U or student cafeteria. And just beyond all of that is the Rue Mouffetard – bustling street of shops, cafés, produce markets, boulangeries, boucheries, and more. While a lot of locals shop here, it’s also a tourist destination so it’s really busy. The main street is usually crowded with leisurely strolling people, munching on a crépe or kebab. It’s a great street.

At night it’s a completely different story.

All buttoned up, still, and yet welcoming.

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500 and a Giveaway…anyone want some little brown pen?

Since switching over to WordPress from my old .mac blog, I have written 499 posts. Yes, this is my 500th post! How crazy is that? It sort of feels like something that should be marked, and so I was thinking it would be fun to do a little giveaway. And what better giveaway than a Paris postcard collection from Little Brown Pen??

Nicole’s pictures capture everything I love about this city and so I want to share a tiny bit of her artwork with you. Just comment below (only once!) and you’ll be entered.

Winner will receive one set of postcards in the color of their choice. And I would imagine that’s going to be a difficult choice for the winner! The grey collection is a personal favorite, but I also love the yellow, pink, red, green. Oh, the choices! I seriously am looking forward to the day when I have a house and can justify purchasing some of her fine-art prints for the walls of a home I’ll spend more than one year in!

And I want to say thanks to each of you for reading these ramblings. I really didn’t think anyone besides my parents would read it and it’s been so fun getting to know some new people and staying connected with old friends! You all are the best!

So, here’s the boring details:

To be entered to win one set of postcards from Little Brown Pen, in the color of your choice, just leave a comment. Only one per reader. Closes Friday at midnight. Winner announced next Monday.

all photos from littlebrownpen.com
 
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Literary Notes #19: The Romanticizing of Paris and Parisian Women

Since I’ve arrived, I’ve read a few books about life in Paris. These range from funny to melodramatic to fully ridiculous. Here’s some reviews of the books I’ve read recently.

The Sweet Life in Paris: Delicious Adventures in the World’s Most Glorious-And Perplexing-City by David Lebovitz

While Lebovitz thoroughly loves Paris, he’s not so taken with the city to be blind to its quirks and frustrations. His essays on learning the proper etiquette for eating vegetables, dealing with the strikes, learning to dress like a Parisian, and navigating a tiny apartment are funny. They’re also astute observations of the challenges one faces when living here – especially as a North American. I do think he’s given to a bit of exaggeration here and there but I have really enjoyed reading his book, I’ve learned a lot and would recommend it to anyone.

Paris the Biography of a City by Colin Jones

This history of Paris is fabulous. It’s a tome at over 600 pages and I haven’t finished it but am enjoying my read. At the very beginning Jones gives a fascinating list of aspects of the city. I found this amazing and am going to include part of it.  When just looking at Paris, it seems like just another city but it’s useful to think in smaller terms. For instance, Paris can be seen in the story of numbers:

  • number of squares: 670
  • number of streets and boulevards: 5,975
  • length of public highways: 5,975 kilometres
  • number of municipal buildings: 318
  • number of fountains: 536
  • number of public monuments: 40,000
  • number of shops: 62,546
  • number of buses: 4,364
  • number of bus routes: 275
  • number of taxis: 14,900
  • number of traffic lights: 10,800
  • number of dogs: 200,000
  • kilometrage of visitable underground tunnels: 300
  • length of history: more than 2,000 years (excluding the prehistoric era)
  • possible number of individuals who have ever lived in Paris or just passed through, each with their own histories….countless

I find these little tidbits fascinating – and the idea of writing a history of a city like Paris must have been daunting. But Colins does it with interest and wit. 

Paris Was Ours: Thirty-Two Writers Reflect on the City of Light by Penelope Rowlands

This is the sort of book that one can pick up and put down – but each time it’s read is an enjoyable and soothing experience. In trying to tell the stories of a few of those countless people who have passed through and spent time in this city, Rowlands put together a remarkably varied collection. From someone taking a vacation from Iran during the revolution to a homeless Parisian woman who became famous by blogging about her experiences, to people who fell in and out of love in Paris, I enjoyed almost every one of these stories. They reflect aspects of this diverse city as well as its many moods – from beautiful and confident, to bleak and melancholy, to triumphal, to defeated. A city with two millennium of history is bound to touch people differently and Paris Was Ours captures those reactions.

The above books are about the city – one that is known the world over, one that captures and changes people. The next two books are about another subject – one that is romanticized, theorized, imitated, and obsessed over. People ask, how does this thing do it? Where does it get its je ne sais quoi? How does it stay so skinny? That, of course, is the French woman. Mysterious, envied, chic – this mythological creature stalks the pages of fashion magazines, leaving behind her a trail of rumpled egos and a cloud of Chanel Number 5. OK, I jest. But there is something about the French girl, her carefully wrapped scarf, perfectly messy hair, red lipstick, aloof bearing, and chic black wardrobe that seems so simple and yet so inaccessible. And that’s where the two following books come in.

Parisian Chic: A Style Guide by Ines de la Fressange with Sophie Gachet

My dear friend, Ashli, gave this lovely book to me when she learned I was moving to Paris. While it bills itself as a “style guide” it really is much more than that. It’s a sort of curriculum on developing a more “French” perspective on life, clothing, food, decor and more. De la Fressange emphasizes a minimalistic approach to clothing and makeup and provides a few tips. The true value of the book comes from her insider’s view of Paris. She outlines where to find great food at places you won’t read about on TripAdvisor. She breaks down the different neighborhoods, gives advice for living in tiny places. While she herself is insufferably chic, she’s also very down-to-earth and her book is a great guide to the hidden corners of Paris.

Entre Nous: A Woman’s Guide to Finding Her Inner French Girl by Debra Ollivier

This book was also a gift. The author is an American who married a Frenchman and lived in France for ten years. What I found frustrating about this book is that she takes the myth of the perfect French girl and inflates to a point that one would think that these creatures are no longer human – they’re demigoddesses. The portrait that Ollivier paints is of a woman who bakes perfect tart tatin while reading Sarte in her spacious and perfectly appointed apartment with floor-to-ceiling views of the Eiffel Tower in preparation for a party where she’s personally prepared six gourmet courses paired with six perfect but obscure wines, chosen the guest list to ensure lively and interesting conversation, curated a background music list of only the most perfect mood-setting melodies by unknown indie bands, and has had time to leisurely bathe and dress, in a wonderful little Chanel piece, so that she emerges relaxed and radient to greet said guests. And yes, this may happen in France, it may even happen on a regular basis, the problem is that Ollivier paints a picture of Paris in which this happens in every French woman’s home all the time. Ollivier obviously lived among the highest crust of Parisian and French society and I am sure that the concentration of perfection is probably higher there than it is in my neighborhood and at my little school. The thing I love about my new neighborhood is that I see moms taking their children to school, women running errands, old ladies bullying produce vendors. And they are all certainly just as human as the rest of us. Entre Nous while creating a lofty meringue of sugary Parisian mythology does provide its readers with lists of great books about French women like Marie Antoinette and Josephine as well as French films and music. I’m using the book to find other books about the aspects of French society I find fascinating.

Do you have any favorite books about France or Paris? I loved A Year in Provence, and My Life in France.

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Benjamin Zander on Music and Passion

This is a great Ted talk. Enjoy!

Click here or on the picture above to listen to this inspiring musical demonstration.

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